If you do not want to read this, you are welcome to schedule a pre dyno inspection for around $100

If there are issues with your vehicle on arrival you will be charged the shop rate which is $100 an hour.

Because of this i highly suggest you triple check everything and if you have any questions or concerns
before your appointment  i am a phone call away and willing to offer suggestions and recommendations
for free so you can get everything in order. I have got interesting questions from people such as
"Do i need to connect the oil to the top of the turbo" "What is this thing hanging on my charge piping" if
you do not have a basic understanding on how a F/I system works i suggest scheduling an appointment with
us or someone else that is familiar with these systems. These questions i will not answer on the phone for
liability reasons, clearly they do not know what they are doing and answering that one question is not going
to save your motor.

Studies show that it is actually cheaper to pay someone that knows what they are doing rather then making
mistakes and causing catastrophic failure. 

All tuning appointments begin at the time of appointment (unless otherwise arranged ahead of time).

I expect that you arrive early or just on time.

Payment is due in full up front before beginning your tune. This total is less any deposit you have paid
already and will need to be paid in cash please. For instance, if you paid a $100 deposit for the date and
your flat rate tune price is $400, you will pay $300 in cash before the tune begins. Any parts, labor or other
charges incurred during the session will be tallied at the end of the tune and can be paid for with cash,
credit card or Paypal as needed. If you do not bring cash with you to your appointment, I will direct you to the
nearest ATM, and ask you to go there first before beginning the tune. This will of course most likely cut into the
allotted time for tuning and I really don’t want to have that happen so please plan ahead.

Electrical and Wiring:
All wiring should be solid and correct before arriving. Connections that aren’t at least crimped or soldered
can vibrate loose and cause intermittent issues or worse, engine failure. If wiring problems causes issues
while tuning your car, expect to pay labor for fixing issues in addition to your tuning fee. If any wiring
issues cause harm to tuning gear that is attached to your car, you will be expected to pay for my
replacement cost of those items. All grounds should be clean (no paint underneath ground wires), connected
in the correct spots and corrosion free. Your alternator, battery and charging system should be operating up
to par charging the car somewhere in the 13.5 – 14.7 volt range. Any lower or any higher and there can be
problems tuning the car properly.

Fuel System:
Your fuel system should be designed to support the Horsepower goals you have for your setup. Properly
operating injectors, fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator are required with ZERO leaks. If there is any
question about what fuel pump is in your tank, I suggest you remove it and replace it with at least the proper
Walbro 255 lph Fuel Pump for your car. In most cases if you need this done, we can supply the fuel pump
and we can install this for you for a charge on the day of the tune. Do not install a fuel pump in a dirty or
rusted fuel tank...you will have issues immediately or later on down the road when your fuel supply is cut
off and engine damage occurs.

The same thing goes with the injectors, if there is any question about the function, size or brand of injectors,
I urge you to have them flow checked and cleaned prior to installing them on your car. If you purchase them
new, you should not have to do this. Injectors can be installed as well on the day of the tune if you need this
done for a charge. If you install the injectors yourself, please make sure they are secure in the intake
manifold and in the fuel rail with good o-rings. Please do not use cracked or worn o-rings on either side of
the injector and do not FORCE these in when installing them. We do stock a variety of injectors in-house
and we can install them on the day of the tune if needed.
You can use a stock fuel pressure regulator in most cases rather than spending money on an aftermarket
piece for N/A or boosted setups under 15 psi...I do suggest though that you acquire a fuel pressure gauge
that installs on an aftermarket fuel rail or on the stock fuel filter. If you do go with an aftermarket regulator,
PLEASE use a well-known brand name and not some knock-off...your fuel system is the most important
system and good parts need to be used...there is no breathing room when your motor is starved for fuel.

I suggest Bosch EV14 based injectors in all setups because they are not garbage.

Ignition and Spark:
Your ignition system is almost as important as your fuel system. Without proper spark, there will be no
power and the car cannot run to its full potential. Please make sure your distributor is working correctly. See
a Honda Service Manual for procedures on how to check your Coil and Ignitor (ICM). Make sure you have
a clean (or new) rotor and cap...and make sure the little rubber seal around the outside of the distributor is
present and in good shape to keep moisture out of the inside. Your spark plug wires should be working well,
I also like OEM stock plug wires or NGK. I highly suggest staying away from ALL MSD products
including external coils, digital spark boxes and plug wires. I have never experienced one benefit to using
an MSD product personally. If your arrive with MSD parts on your car, I will tune it, but if the part fails
while tuning or is bad from the start, there will be an extra charge or your car may not be able to be
completely tuned and you will still be responsible for the tuning fees. OEM parts have been used on many
600+ HP cars...there is no need for 5 aftermarket ignition products unless you have a completely serious
race car, and then there are many other better products to use rather than MSD.
Make sure your spark plugs are in good shape and gapped correctly. We stock spark plugs here but if you
don’t want to purchase a set from us, please have at least one or two extra sets with you when you come for
your appointment. Please call well before your tuning appointment if you need recommendations on which
plugs to run for your application. Any car being tuned on Hondata S300 or KPRO will need to be running
Resistor Plugs, please do not use Non-Resistor Plugs in these applications or there are side effects with the
Hondata hardware. We do carry plugs in stock at all times.

O2 Sensor Bung:
You NEED to have an O2 Sensor bung, easily accessible and free and clear from any objects. If you have an
O2 sensor currently in a bung in your exhaust, please make sure it is not rust-locked in there and it is able to
be removed. If the plug or installed O2 sensor isn’t able to be easily removed, you may incur extra labor
charges. If you show up without an O2 bung, I have to put a clamp in your exhaust which is not as accurate
and harder to get a good tune with for idle and part throttle. The O2 sensor bung needs to be 12-18” from
the turbo outlet if you are running a turbo. If you are N/A or Supercharged, the bung needs to be in the
exhaust where ALL exhaust gases travel by...do not put a bung in one or two runners on a header...this can
potentially give the tuner bad information and will throw things off.

Exhaust System:
Your exhaust system should be free from leaks, cracks or other issues as leaks in the exhaust before the O2
sensor can throw off readings. I am a big believer of high flow catalytic convertors but they are not
required. Your manifold should be secured to the head of the motor with all bolts and a leak free gasket. If
you are running a turbo, it should be secure to the manifold with at least (suggested) 2.5” downpipe and a
DUMPTUBE should be venting exhaust gases below the oil pan with an externally gated waste-gate setup.
If you arrive without a dump tube, we may not be able to safely tune your vehicle. If you don’t have a
FULL EXHAUST exiting out from the back bumper or a dump tube, I need to be made aware BEFORE
you arrive...no exceptions.

Use your brain:
If you think something is apt to fail, it probably will. Perform a complete common sense check of your
entire setup and car before coming in for your appointment. If you have rubber hoses near a hot manifold,
they are probably going to melt. If you have a loose wire or ground, it is probably going to cause issues with
the tune. If you are spending good money on a tune, you are going to want to get the best bang for your
buck. If I have to fix common sense issues that should have been addressed prior to your arrival to complete
the tune, there will be an extra charge. I will help you by answering any questions before the tune to get
these potential issues fixed free of charge!

Bring Your Tools to the Dyno:
If there are things on the car that might need to be fixed, and you are mechanically capable of fixing those
while on the dyno, bring your tools with you. I have no problem with you fixing your own car while it’s on
the dyno, but you need to use your own tools, not mine. If you are using my tools or equipment, it will be
the same charge as if I was working on the car

Basic Checklist:

Wheel lock key available
Fluids topped up (not over-filled!)
Fuel tank full of type of fuel to be used long-term
Pre-cat O2 sensor or bung cracked loose - not seized
No fluid leaks
Bodywork will clear dyno pods (enquire if unsure)
Spark plugs in good condition. Have spare plugs if you have ever fouled plugs before
Coolant is bled and radiator fans installed and working
Have required cable to connect to computer / ECU (if applicable)
Have informed OnPoint of all previous issues with the vehicle
Clutch capable of handling target power
Alternator correctly charging, healthy battery
Good Compression
Valves adjusted

Aditional Measures for F/I
Components protected from heat from exhaust / turbo
Boost leak test passed - NO boost leaks
Boost controller installed correctly and functioning as designed
Wastegate correctly plumbed
Blow Off Valve setup correctly / not leaking air
Exhaust components fastened with high quality hardware, safety wired
Fuel pump and injectors suitably sized for target power
All vacuum hoses in good condition, all ends ziptied in place to prevent boost from popping off hoses
Oil catch can installed, no open valve cover vents
No water or oil lines dangerously close to turbo or exhaust manifold components
Ignition system capable of supporting target power level, spare coils on site if required